Viana
do Castelo
The
lovely city of Viana situated on the Northern
bank of the River Lima at its estuary is well
covered in all the major guide books and the local
tourist office publish a very good guide in English.
Apart from the superb beach (on the opposite side
of the river) the town offers a host of other
attractions from the basilica high above the town
to its cathedral, Main Square and riverside gardens.
The maze of streets in the centre is bisected
by the wide Avenida dos Combatentes, constructed
at the same time as the railway to facilitate
movement of goods between the station and the
riverside quays.
It is a lovely town for shopping with an excellent
selection of small shops as well as a large Continente
supermarket on the edge of town which will provide
for all your day to day needs. Within the town
centre itself there is also a smaller Pingo Doce
supermarket, both of these are part of chains
found throughout the country and are always a
safe bet for shopping. The town is especially
busy on Fridays when its large weekly market is
held. The area outside the municipal market in
the centre is transformed into a field of vegetables,
fruit, flowers and small animals all laid out
on the floor. Whilst at the other end of town
the open market sells everything from 3 piece
suites to 3 piece suits!
Eating
in Viana
The
delights of Viana can be appreciated by walking
around its back streets and by doing this you
will soon realise how many restaurants there are.
It is difficult to confine the list of recommendations.
Virtually everywhere serves a good value dish
of the day at lunchtime which can cost as little
as 500$ including a drink. As a suggestion try
the following:
Valentims in a side street near
the open market and not immediately visible, this
restaurant is unusual in that it is a fish restaurant
and nothing else, serving Grilled fish, Fish rice
and Caldeirada, a mixed fish and vegetable casserole.
Três
Arcos,
along the riverside gardens has a smart restaurant
with plenty of starched linen and a “sit
at the bar” area serving the same food but
cheaper. Daily change of menu with good variety.
Bandeira
in Rua Bandeira, the main shopping street an excellent
lunch time stop with four or five dishes of the
day in enormous portions for only 500$.
Maria
de Perre.
Just off the main avenue at the bottom end. An
old granite building with a split level interior
creating an unusual setting. A fado night is held
on the last Thursday of the month where the diners
are provided with instruments and encouraged to
join in.
Foz
Café. This modern café/restaurant
is actually on the other side of the river near
the beach. Enormous portions at very reasonable
prices. Also serve a wide variety of pancakes
as a dessert or snack.
For deeper pockets the following two are worth
a visit:
Casa
das Armas
at the bottom of the avenue, turn right, this
up market restaurant has many regional specialities
and very attentive service.
Tres
Potes A lovely old stone building
which features a folklore night on Friday and
Saturday during the summer. Good food with some
regional specialities and awarm friendly atmosphere.
NORTH OF VIANA
There
are further excellent beaches north of Viana at
Carreço, Afife and Vila Praia de Âncora.
Carreço, has two beaches separated by the
hill and lighthouse of Montedor. The more northerly
beach, Paçô, is particularly attractive
with its small fort. Afife, a further 4 kilometres,
is a beautiful village with a superb 3 km stretch
of beach excellent for surfing. Finally Vila Praia
de Âncora is very much a small resort town
with an excellent beach divided by the River Âncora
which is clean and safe for younger children.
Many of the beaches in the area are designated
Blue Flag beaches and proudly fly the flag every
day.
Both Afife and Âncora have a good selection
of restaurants:
Restaurant
Praia, Afife Beach. This rather
large somewhat impersonal restaurant has the advantage
of being situated virtually right on the beach
with an abundance of window tables. Good helpings
of food with the roast kid (cabrito) being recommended
as is the Cozido Português a mixed meat
and vegetable dish popular on Sundays.
Quinta
S. Roque, Afife.
At the south end of the village alongside the
railway. A superbly converted old farmhouse with
plenty of character and an outside eating area
under the trees. A selection of regional dishes
with a difference as well as simple grilled chicken
for the less adventurous.
The
seafront at Âncora is lined with a number
of restaurants. The speciality here is a mixed,
grilled fish platter (parrilhada).
Rias
Baixas and Verdes
Lirios along here are both to be recommended with
good seaviews if you are early or lucky enough
to get a window seat. In a street behind here
you like might to try A
Tasquinha. Despite its location
in a modern building block the proprietors have
successfully created a more rustic atmosphere
inside with plenty of regional crockery and decorations
adorning the walls. Plenty of variety on the menu
with grills and other dishes. Good lunchtime dish
of the day and a surprisingly good and reasonably
priced wine list.
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